Glaciers, Jetboating, Fjords and Gloworms

Hi everyone and Happy Easter......

Hold on to your seats because this is going to be an action adventure packed update. We are headed to the adventure capital of the world....Queenstown!! Sky diving, paragliding, bungy jumping.......none of which we did.

Since our last update have traveled down the west coast stopping at the Franz Joseph and Fox Glaciers. I should also point out that we made an unscheduled stop on the way with the local NZ policeforce, where I picked up a nice $NZ120 speeding fine!!! We arrived at the town of Franz Joseph just in time for a huge rain storm. We spent most of the day in the camper van trying to stay warm and dry. It looked like we weren't going to get to hike up the base, let alone hike on the glacier at all.

The next day we had decided to move on but stopped at Fox glacier in the morning and caught a pocket of blue sky and sun, just in time to hike up to the base and see the glacier. It was a tough hike, we barely made it and had to cross roaring rivers to get to the base. (Only the little Japanese lady along side us managed to do it in high heels carrying her Gucci bag and an umbrella so it couldn't have been that bad. Maybe I embellish a little.) Whilst the Glaciers were great to see I think I have been spoiled by the ones in Chile and so didn't find them that spectacular.


Alex starts off the hike strong and brave.


At the base of the glacier. I think it is a little too muddy to be picturesque.


Alex thinking..."Nice Glacier and all, but not as good as Patagonia."

After conquering the glaciers we drove all day to Queenstown - New Zealand's adventure capital. We spent a traditional Easter in Queenstown; sunday morning church service, a speedy ham sandwhich and off to adventure. We started off by taking the gondola ride up the mountain to ride the luge!! We had beautiful sunny weather and spectacular views of Queenstown and the lake from the top.


Alex took the "advanced" course on the luge - one handed!!

In the afternoon we had booked a ride on the jetboat in Shotover river canyon!! While the ride only lasts about 30 minutes it is like a roller coaster. The driver takes you up close to the canyon walls and does 360 degree turns. I have to say that this was a fantastic experience and left me grinning ear to ear. The jetboats run off 2 V6 Buick engines and because they don't have a propeller they are able to spin and change direction very quickly - a highly recommened experience...




Can you pick out where we are??

Next stop, Te Anau and the Fjordland National park. This is home to much of NZ famous movie filming - The Lord of the Rings. We did not take the Lord of the Rings offroad tour but you can tell by the scenery why they chose this area. Again we were lucky with clear blue skies, although the weather is much colder here in the southwest coast. The drive to the fjords was amazing with waterfalls, gorges, tunels and snowcapped mountains. After arriving in Milford we took a boat ride out to the fjords to get a closer look, just one word can describe it - spectacular!!!


Stunning scenery in Milford Sound


Waterfalls abound


Sailing through the Fjords

We drove back to Milford that evening to take a tour of Gloworm caves. We were unsure what to expect but weren't disappointed. After a boat ride across lake Te Anau we were escorted into the limestone caves along walkways and small gondola style boats. Inside it was pitch black apart from thousands of tiny pinprick lights from the gloworms hanging from the ceiling. It was a magical experience and a great way to end our time in the fjordland national park.

Our next stop is back to the East coast and the city of Dunedin before heading north towards Christchurch. Stay tuned for more adventures...................

Continuing Adventures in New Zealand

Alex has earned a well deserved break from web site updating (other than editors comments) so I have offered to lead this one. (I knew Sara would come in useful on this trip!!!)

We left off in Kaikoura where we drove further north to the town of Blenheim. This is the "wine country" of NZ. We spent two nights there tasting wines and relaxing. It is much like the Sonoma Valley we visited in California a few weeks ago. The area is known for its Chardonnays so we tasted many and bought one. We also found a little chocolate boutique where they hand make all their chocolates. You can watch through the glass and have a free taste. It doesn't get much better than wine and chocolate.

We also stopped in a local discount store called the Warehouse to get a warmer duvet for the camper van. We have very few complaints about our campervan (aside from some plumbing issues) but it is a bit cool at night and the linens provided are quite thin. As we head south towards the glaciers and it gets later into Fall it is going to be even colder. (Sara will say "we" were cold but I think we all know who really wanted the extra quilt!!!)

From Blenheim we headed to the northernmost city on the south island called Nelson, near the Abel Tasman National park. The roads here along the coast are beautiful with fantastic views but very windy and cliff side. If you don't get car sick you will once you drive these roads in a camper van!! We camped a few kms outside of Nelson and walked around the town. We were lucky to be there for their Saturday morning market and got some wonderful fresh fruits and veg. Then it was off to Marahau, a small town closer to the Abel Tasman.


Alex at the start of the trail (where we actually finished our tramp)

Our first day in the park we took a water taxi up the coast to a small bay called Torrent bay. The national park is the smallest of the ones in NZ but also sees the most visitors each year. We hiked (they call it tramping here in NZ) from Torrent bay about 14kms along the coast and evergreen mountains to the start of the national park and back to our van. The coast is beautiful with sandy beaches and blue/turquoise waters.



We stopped for lunch at one of the beaches and had a swim. We had the whole beach to ourselves for most of our break.


More views from the tramp.

The park has fantastic paths that you can tramp and camp for several days in the park. It is only accessible by tramping or boat. Several lucky people even have holiday homes in the park which are rare and very expensive.

After a long day of tramping we returned to camp and hit the hay early. The next morning we had booked a kayak trip with a local company called Kiwi Kayaks. We would be kayaking up the coast of that national park about 15 kms with several other couples and a guide.


Taking a break at one of the beaches along the way

We had morning tea and biscuits at a beach called sandfly beach. Note to self- they wouldn't call it sandfly beach if it wasn't true. Too bad we didnt have any repellant. We are paying the price now, several days later. Alex and I have the bite marks all over our legs to prove it.



We couldn't ask for better weather. It was warm but not too hot and the sun was out all day. We all took time for swims off the beach during lunch break.


I think we could both get used to this life!

No we didn't tip the boat and Alex did a fantastic job steering (Naturally!!!). Maybe we will trade the camper van in for a kayak and see the rest of the country by boat?

From Abel Tasman we head to the west coast and glaciers!! Stay tuned.

Melbourne to New Zealand

Hi everyone and welcome to the latest installment of our travels. Since the last update we have visited Koalas, watched the amazing Cirque De Soleil, visted chez Palmer and been whale watching!!! Phew, it has been a busy few days - read all about it below:

Phillip Island and Cirque De Soleil

Following the noise and excitement of the Formula One we decided to take a break from Melbourne for the day and head south to Phillip Island. The island is about a two hour drive from Melbourne and is famous for its penguin colony and the koala bears. We headed straight for the koala reserve first and were not disappointed. The reserve has built treetop walkways that allow you get right up next to the bears. It is impossible to not say "oh they are sooooo cute"!!!! One (stupid American) visitor became so carried away that they ignored the signs and began stroking them.


Me and Koala photo (oh well,stupid British tourist didn't read the no standing on railing signs either)

After the koala reserve we explored the island further before taking an early dinner at a "mexican" restaurant. Yet another country gets mexican food wrong. On goes my never ending quest to find good mexican food abroad. My time in south america clearly counted for nothing as I nearly died after eating some chilli seeds!! He is being overly dramatic about the experience per my superb nursing skills, but he did turn bright red and nearly choke. It was then on to the penguin colony for sunset to watch the penguins come out of the sea to retire for the night. We were both really excited about the prospect of seeing hundreds of penguins running up the beach. In actual fact there were less then twenty and they plodded rather than ran. We did get very close to view them making their way to the nests which made up for it. So what if the number of tourist out-numbered the penguins ten to one right?

It was then back to Melbourne for our last day in the city before flying on to New Zealand. After completing all the necessary travelers chores (internet and laundry) we went to see Cirque De Soleil which is touring there at the moment. If any of you get the chance to see the show DO IT!!! It was the best show I have seen for a long time and the performances were incredible. It was a wonderful way to end our last night in Melbourne. Alex and I are actually just perfecting our performance for the upcoming auditions (for those of you still wondering about our post-trip plans.)

Christchurch - New Zealand

A three hour flight from Melbourne took us to our next destination of Christchurch, New Zealand. After a slight issue at customs (always declare any foodstuffs you have, including peanut butter -me and Marmite -him!!!) we picked up the rental car and headed into town. We were spending four days at chez Palmer before picking up our campervan to tour the rest of NZ. Chez Palmer aka the wonderful Chris, Lynne and Finlay are some friends of mine from the UK who now live in Chirstchurch (don't think they could handle the crazy UK pace!!). Is was great to meet up with them again and experience some NZ family life. Aside from being whipped at golf by the bandit Palmer Sara and I spent the next couple of days exploring the city.

Christchurch is a large city but has a small town feel to it. Aside from exploring the city we visited the Antarctica Museum. Christchruch serves as the US base for supplies to Antarctica and so is an important jumping off point. The museum was excellent and even includes an "experience the Antarctica" exibit. Here you put on thick coats and are plunged into Antartic storms with temperatures of minus twenty six!!!!


Me and Sara in the Antartic

A million thank yous to Chris and Lynne for putting us up and giving us a great introduction to New Zealand. Thanks guys.


Me Chris and Finlay

Whale watching in Kiakoura

We picked up our campervan on Monday morning and set off for four weeks touring the South Island.



Our first stop was the town of Kiakoura about three hours north of Christchurch on the east coast. The town is famous for whale watching so we decided to spend two nights here and join an early morning whale watching trip. We rose at 7am to clear skys and set off to spot the mighty Sperm whales. We did not have to wait long before our first sighting. The size is amazing even from the surface and here we only see 10% of the whale! Overall we saw five whales spouting water and diving - amazing. Slightly different from whale watching in Hawaii. The boats here have GPS and a huge flat screen TV to watch your location and learn about the whales and ocean. In Hawaii you get a dirty old boat staffed with surfer guys and da kine shouting out Whale! Whale! when they see a spout!


Our first whale

On our way back to port we stopped at a seal colony and then ran into hundreds of dolphins. They were leaping into the air and swimming under the boat. It was all Alex could do to hold me back from jumping in the water to swim with them, although the people swimming with the dolphins have wet suits...I'm not going in without that. It will be a highlight of my trip and something I will remember for a long time.


Dolphins

We leave Kiakoura tomorrow and head further north to the town of Blenhiem to partake in some wine tasting and see if it compares to that Californian stuff!!! Stay tuned for more news of our travels soon..........

Ayers Rock, Ocean Roads and Formula One

Hi everyone and welcome to the latest update on our travels in Australia. Since the last posting we have traveled to "The Red Centre" of Australia to see Ayers Rock. It was then south to Melbourne to drive the Great Ocean road and see the first race of the 2005 Formula One season. Read all about our adventures below......

The Red Centre

One word describes our trip into the centre of Australia - HOT!!! I could think of a few other words to describe it. We left a cool Sydney and flew three hours west to Alice Springs. We spent the rest of the day exploring the town and trying to get used to the heat. It was so hot though that we soon headed back to the hostel to cool down by the pool. It was an early night as the next day we were joining a three day Outback camping tour to Ayers Rock and Kings Canyon.


This photo was taken at 7:30am, already 102degs in the shade!!!

The next morning we rose at 5am to join our tour group for the three day outback adventure. The first morning we drove southeast to our campsite at Ayers Rock, our base for the first night. After exploring our tents and a brief lunch we headed out for a walk around the Olgas (dome shaped rocks) and then on to Ayers Rock to catch sunset. The rock stands alone in the flat desert and can be seen for hundreds of miles. It is a sacred Aboriginal site and access to it is limited. As the sun set over the rock it was incredible to watch how the colour changed almost minute by minute from bright orange to dark purples. We headed back to the campsite for a traditional Outback BBQ. It was then an early night as the next day we had to be up early again to catch sunrise over the rock. After the first night our tour group had already lost one couple. They decided the trip was too much for them and they opted to fly out in the morning rather than finish the trip. It was like being on survivor only you dont have to vote people off, they leave on their own.


Sunset at Ayers Rock

We rose early again to see sunrise over the rock and walk the two hour path around the base. Apart from the heat of the Outback the other major annoyance are the flies. Apparently they are worse then ever this year but if you are outside between sunrise and sunset you are attacked by them. There are 101 flies per person and their number one goal is to fly up your nose, in your eyes, ears and mouth. Luckily they don't bite but is just very annoying having to constantly swot them away from your face. Mind you, we had contemplated buying those fly nets for your hat while in Alice Springs but decided it was too silly looking for us "cool" people.How cool did we look swatting at our faces 12 hours a day while almost EVERYONE else had them on!! We left Ayers Rock at lunchtime and drove for the rest of the afternoon to our second campsite at Kings Canyon. The campsite had a pool so we jumped straight in there after arriving before relaxing around the camp fire.


Relaxing around the campfire at Kings Canyon

An early start greeted us again for our third and final day of the tour. We drove out to Kings Canyon to trek the four hour path around the rim. The Canyon is pretty small but made a pleasant walk (apart from the flies). We were pretty pleased to complete the walk and get back to the airconditioned coach by the end.


On the rim of Kings Canyon


At the top of Kings Canyon!!!!

After the Canyon we drove back to Alice Springs for a last night in the town before catching the morning flight to Melbourne. It was much cooler weather that greeted us in Melbourne which made a refreshing change.

The Great Ocean Road

The plan for the first three days was to drive The Great Ocean Road south of Melbourne. We picked up our rental car at the airport and drove out to the start of the drive, about four hours west of the city. It is said to be one of the most beautiful coastal drives in the world, and certainly did not disappoint.


The start of the drive

The coast was spectacular with steep limestone cliffs and rough ocean seas. The most photographed part is called the Twelve Apostles which is a section of Twelve rocky outcrops.


The Twelve Apostles


Amazing beaches

Part of the drive takes you through a national park most of which is forest. Sara and her wildlife spotting eyes even managed to see a koala bear high in the trees. Must be a talent I picked up in Africa. We took photos of the koala in the tree and it is even hard to find him among the trees in the photo. After spending nights in the towns of Port Cambell and Lorne we arrived back in Melbourne and prepared ourselves for the Formula One Grand Prix.


Watch out for wildlife on the roads

Formula One

After checking into our hostel (the last bed left in the city) we went out to explore the city. Melbourne has gone Formula One mad with many fans on the streets and the Albert Park (the circuit) area totally closed off. It was an early start on Sunday morning to get to the circuit for 10am and the second qualifying session. We had great seats on the main straight next to the pit lane exit. After an exciting qualifying session we had a quick bite to eat before preparing ourselves for the race proper.


JP Montoya on the drivers parade lap

The race was pretty exciting although I was disappointed that we didn't have a Brit on the podium. Need I even mention that my pick for winner stalled his car in the warm up lap and delayed the whole race and had to start last! Boy can I pick them huh?After the race the crowd are allowed onto the circuit so we made our way down to the podium to see the traditional post race champagne spraying.


On the circuit after the race


Parc Ferme - millions of dollars of F1 cars!!!!

We are here in Melbourne for another three days before flying off to New Zealand for the next leg of the trip. Stay tuned for more news of our travels........