Adventures In Patagonia

Hi everyone. I am currently in Patagonia, southern Chile, in the town of Punta Arenas. Since my last posting from Pucon I have traveled south and just completed a ten day trek in the Torres Del Paine national park. Read all about my adventures below:

After leaving Pucon we took a six hour bus ride south to the town of Puerto Montt. This is a port town on the coast and is a jumping off point for boats heading south down the Chilean coast. We stayed in the town for two nights before flying to Punta Arenas in Patagonia. It was then a quick transfer onto a bus for the journey to Puerto Natales where we spent 2 nights preparing for our ten day trek in the Torres Del Paine national park. We would be walking the "circuit" and the "W" which are the two main treks in the park. We would also be spending one day on Glacier Grey exploring and ice climbing.

So it was on a typically Patagonian "wet and windy" morning that we set off for the start of the trek loaded down with tents, stoves and ten days of pasta and "beanfeast" - yum!!!!


Loaded down at the start

The first two days of the trek the weather remained wet and windy and we all got a good soaking on the first night. I was pretty exhausted after day one and wasn't looking forward to another nine days.


Struggling against the wind on day two


Taking a break on the trail

By the end of the second day we had reached the campsite of Dickson which is set on the shores of lake Dickson. They had a shop and refuge here so after a cold shower and some food we all sat in the refuge to warm up before another night under canvas. Day three was much shorter and took us to the campsite of Los Peros which is located next to a glacier of the same name. The picture below is of me standing on some mini icebergs that have broken off the glacier behind me:



We all headed to bed early as day four was to be the hardest of the whole trek. It was not a huge distance but involved crossing a bog, climbing a steep pass, descending through steep forest and finally walking for four hours along the side of Glacier Grey. We left camp at 7am and after a tough morning getting wet in the bog and climbing we reached the pass at 11:30am. The wind at the top was incredibly strong and nearly blew me over on several occasions!!! The view that greeted us at the top however was breathtaking as we could see Glacier Grey stretching out below us.


Crossing the pass


Glacier Grey viewed from the pass


The front of the glacier

After the pass we descended through forest and walked along the side of the glacier to arrive at the campsite around 8pm. The campsite is on the shores of Lake Grey and would be our base for two nights. On day five we went for a day trek onto the glacier. This started with a boat ride across the lake in an Zodiac inflatable boat before being kitted out in crampons, harnesses and ice axes. It was a great trek on the most bizarre landscape. The trek lasted about four hours and we saw deep cravasses, waterfalls, streams and even went ice climbing - an amazing experience.


Trekking on the glacier


Down a cravass


Ice climbing with crampons and ice axe!!!

Day six of the trek and we continued further round the circuit to the campsite of Italiano, about a six hour hike from camping Grey. We were also now trekking on what is called the "W" part of the circuit which is a more popular trail and was much busier. We even stopped for lunch at a new hotel that has been constructed in the park. We arrived at Italiano in the pouring rain and cold - decided to retire early!!!

Day seven we did a day hike from the campsite up the Valley Frances to get views of the mountains (Cuernos) and the glacier Frances. It was a beautiful day and we had fantastic views of the Cuernos:


At the viewpoint (Mirador) at the top of the Valley Frances

On day eight we left Italiano campsite a trekked to our final campsite called Las Torres. The trek took most of the day following a trail along a lake in open countryside. We arrived in camp at around 4pm in beautiful warm sunshine. Las Torres is the main resort in the park and has a hotel, restaurants, hostel and camping.

Day nine we did our last full day trek to see the famous "Torres". Yet again we were incredibly lucky with the weather and were blessed with no wind and warm sunshine. The trek took about three hours the last part of which was up steep scree slope to the base of the Torres. From the top we could see the Torres rising vertically up, amazing to see.


Kieron, Me and Rich at the Torres

We arrived back in camp around 4pm and relaxed in the campsite enjoying the weather. Everyone in the group agreed that it was a fantastic experience and something we would all remember for a long time.


Back in camp - getting a brew on!!!

Day ten, "the final day", started with a late breakfast before a final two hour trek to the bus stop where it all began ten days previously. Yet again it was a beautiful day with great views of the Torres:


Hiking to the bus stop - The Torres behind me


Phew, done it!!!!!

After a well deserved shower and change of clothes we all headed out for a celebratory meal. It was a tough but incredibly rewarding ten days and one of the highlights of my trip so far.

After two days here in Punta Arenas we head even further south into Argentina and the final destination of Ushuair - at the southerly tip of South America. Only one more week left in South America before I fly north to California where the next chapter in my travels begins!!!

Santiago, New Year and Volcanoes

Happy New Year everyone and greetings from Pucon in Chile. Since my last posting I have traveled south through Chile stopping in Santiago, celebrating New Years on the coast and climbed a Volcano here in Chile's adventure capital Pucon. Read all about my adventures below:

After a gruelling 24 hour bus journey from San Pedro we eventually arrived in Chile's capital city Santiago. What a great city and so different from what we have been used to in Bolivia and Peru. Santiago is a great a city and very western - it has a european feel to it much like Buenos Aires and even has its own metro system. We spent two days here exploring the city and its sights. One night we visited the Santiago horse racing course for an evening meeting. A chance for me to blow a few Pesos on some South American nags:

Studying the form

The finishing line - lost again!!

New Years in Valparaiso

I was bit sad to be leaving Santiago as I really enjoyed the city and would have liked to have spent more time here. However time was pressing and the plan was to visit the city of Valparaiso for New Years eve. Valparaiso is located west of Santiago on the coast and is Chile's second largest city. It is famous for its New Years Eve fireworks and the local paper was estimating a million people would be descending on the city. After settling into the hostel we went for a wander around the city for the afternoon and rode on one of the many funicular railways which climb the surrounding hills.

After a pre New Years beer and a short stop at the off license to buy Champagne it was back to the hostel to prepare for the big night. We all went out for food first (less said about that the better) and then descended to the main plaza to join the crowds for the fireworks. The fireworks were let off from one of the Chilean Navy vessels in the harbour and are the best I have ever seen. The display was incredible with a huge finale:

Luke and Vicky celebrate in the Plaza

The incredible fireworks

The plaza after the fireworks

New Years day started a bit later than usual!! However after a bit of breakfast/lunch we all headed up the coast to the town of Vina Del Mar to relax on the beach. The weather was hot and sunny and it was just the best way to spend the first day of 2005. I also had my first dip in the Pacific Ocean for this trip, although it was a bit nippy!

The beach on New Years Day

Pucon

It was an early start the next day as a long bus journey awaited us from Valparaiso to Chile's adventure capital Pucon. The bus journey took all day and we arrived in Pucon at 8pm. Pucon is located inland about two thirds down the length of Chile. It is a real adventure place with its main attraction being the volcano of Villarrica which overlooks the town. We were booked to climb the volcano the next day so after a some food it was an early night.

Villarrica is an active volcano with its peak at 2800 meters. Its slopes however are snow covered and in the winter it is a ski resort. We left at 7am for our first stop to get kitted out with waterproofs and ice axes!! It was then off to the base to catch the ski lift to the start of the climb. The climb to the top took about four hours up the side of the volcano on snow and ice. I didn't find the going too difficult and the altitude was much lower than we have been climbing in previously. We reached the crater at the top around lunchtime but none of us were prepared for what we were about to see...

Villarrica - note smoke from top!!

Near the top - Villarrica lake in the background

When we looked into the crater we could see lava glowing red but the best bit was every minute or so it would blow huge volumes into the air. It was just like being in one of those videos we used to see in geography lessons!! Absolutely amazing to see and the guides said that it hasn't been this active for several years:

Moltern lava blown into the air

Me with the lava vent behind me

After lunch at the top and more lava watching we put on our waterproofs and prepared for the descent in the only way possible - on our backsides!!!!! We slid down channels in the snow much like a toboggan run and used the ice axe for brakes:

Sliding down

Stooooopppppppp!!!!!

Everyone agreed it was one of the best days on the trip so far and something I will remember for a long time. We all relaxed back at the hostel with well earned beers and a BBQ. The next day more adventure awaited as I was booked in for white water rafting! The rafting was down a nearby river that flowed into Lake Villarrica - the rapids were only up to a grade three so nothing like the grade fives that nearly destroyed me in Africa!!

Preparing for the rafting

I am here in Pucon for a couple more days - as long as my body can take all the adventure!! Then heading further south into Patagonia to prepare for a nine day trek in the Torres Del Paine national park. Stay tuned for more adventure.....